GROUNDED

Europe’s Lesser-Known Style Capitals a Scandinavian adventure with Liz Sunshine

Post-trip Q&A with Liz Sunshine

Liz, what drew you to partner with Eurail?

I've always been curious about European train travel, a sustainable and romantic notion for someone who has previously only flown between European cities. When I started speaking with Eurail, I realised we had a lot in common. We both love asking questions, seeking new experiences, and being open-minded. Discovering new places, taking a path less worn, and slowing down, but most of all, we love people.

As a company, Eurail is driven by the importance of connecting people and encouraging us to approach travel with a curious and slow mindset. This resonates with me deeply, and I hope more Australians will consider it as we flock to the same destinations over the European summer.

Describe your journey with Eurail throughout Scandinavia – where did you go, what was the journey between each destination like, what were your highlight moments, what interesting people did you meet?

Landing in Oslo, Norway, we boarded a sleeper train to Bergen. Clean sheets, a good pillow, and a lulling and comfortable 8-hour train journey later, we arrived in Bergen. Awake with anticipation, I saw my first Norwegian Fjords as the sun rose and the train slowed, getting closer to the end destination and the beginning of our journey.

Bergen, a town set deeply into the coastline surrounded by high mountains and deep water-filled valleys, was the perfect introduction to the Nordic way. Fresh air, a newly thriving vintage clothing scene heavily inspired by the 90s, was book-ended with walks to find daily matcha, document people, and an accidental endeavour to walk up the steep incline to a local lookout in Chanel loafers - proving to be a somewhat humbling and cathartic start to this adventure.

In these first two days, I realised everyone I encountered wore used clothes, and I started to feel like there was an unwritten synergy and connection between the Norwegian and Australian approaches to dressing—a down-to-earth undertone that further solidified as I continued on my journey.

Our next stop was Oslo, and to get there we boarded what I thought would be the same train back in the other direction. Although I know Scandinavians do most things with intention, I didn't anticipate that this mindset would span across the trains to include beautiful, clean spaces, playgrounds, and cafes. I also didn't expect the landscape I had slept through on my way to Bergen would initially be a rolling snow-covered hilly oasis as far as the eye could see, that then followed onto pine forests next to babbling streams and then further into open landscapes. Norwegian style weatherboard houses connecting the transition of surrounds until we got much closer to the city.

Settling into our seats, I watched two women in their 30s across from us knitting—a trend I would see time and time again as I caught many trains on my journey south to Copenhagen. This ability to sit and be present with not only the person you are travelling with but also the landscape and a simple pastime is something I long for, like memories from my childhood—before the digital age and the relentless need to be 'on'.

Oslo was my favourite city - an unexpected pull away from Stockholm and Copenhagen. On the day we arrived, it was warm but snowing. Soft flakes gently landed on our arms and hair as we wheeled our suitcases easily from the station down the block to our hotel. Sommerro set the tone for Oslo - uniquely captivating, historic and open-minded - an experience unrivalled by many global hotels I have stayed at in recent years.

Norwegian art, design, and culture are deeply connected to history, and this is also reflected in the clothes. Unafraid of a bit of wear and tear, I enjoyed how people held themselves in a natural but cared-for approach to life, with grey hair and happy wrinkles as regular as vintage Levi's. A melting pot of individual style that felt more Melbourne than the consistent styles I would experience later in Copenhagen.

From Olso, we journeyed onto Stockholm, but not before a day trip in Sweden’s, Gothenburg. As Australians when we travel, I feel like we are always hyper aware of our passports. They feel like the key to unexplored horizons and cities we visit like old friends, but when you travel by train, they sit safely tucked away in a secret spot, almost so forgotten you occasionally need to check they are still there.

Our four hour stop over in Gothenburg quickly turned to 5, when we realised we had underestimated the value of this smaller city. A scan for new train times on our app and a new option selected meant the day remained at a calmer pace. Vintage trams, vintage clothes, and the Swedish food market were all of the greatest intrigue to me. An opportunity to see how locals live, taking time to sit and eat lunch together another slow sentiment I would like to plant deeply in my mindset, replacing my need or ability to multitask while I eat.

In Stockholm we arrived on an evening that was lightly snowing, only to be welcomed past the grand wooden doors of the Bank Hotel into a warmly lit foyer with champagne on arrival, as we passed the entrance to the restaurant we couldn't help pausing to see the scene inside. A full house of people sitting in a glamorous setting beneath chandeliers and large works of art. The next morning we wandered through streets that had the same beauty of Paris, but cleaner, a cooler than usual April meant black coats had been pulled out once more and most people on the streets looked the same. All I could think to was the summer street style galleries of world Vogues collectively set in these streets, my heart set on returning in summer.

Our next stop was Malmo, just across the pond from Copenhagen. Malmo was probably my second favourite destination as I was totally romanced by the galleries here, exhibitions spoke of women's liberation, or excessing consumption, or both. People sat in art gallery kitchens over lunch eating salad and potatoes from a communal table, while I flicked through the books I had just purchased at the book shop.

Boarding our last train we travelled from Malmo to Copenhagen. A quick trip over the Oresund bridge and we arrived in Denmark, the last of the picturesque Scandinavian cities. Walking the streets of Copenhagen I reflected on my journey, what I have seen and the change in my own mindset. The blend of people, culture and community, not only enriching my understanding of Scandinavia, but also creating unforgettable memories.

Was Scandinavia what you expected it to be? (what did you love most / what surprised you most)

Before this trip, when I thought of Scandinavia, I thought of clean white spaces and wooden minimalist furniture, beautiful women with blonde hair secured in bright claw clips wearing loose jeans or cotton trousers, a vintage designer bag, and a coat tailored to perfection. What I discovered was a much more multifaceted and nuanced approach to life. This relatable but elevated individual approach also exists within a collective mindset and concern/respect for one another and the environment.

I didn't expect to see a shared, down-to-earth mindset like the one I see in Australia. The only difference I noticed was that Scandinavians place equal importance on form and function, whether it's the cut of a jacket, restoring a particular chair, shopping locally, or leaning into sustainable travel. Each task, idea, or item is hand-chosen and often looked after or restored with great care. Each person is okay with living with less but better.

Based on your observations, how do cities in Scandinavia compare to the better-known style capitals of Paris, Milan and London?

Scandinavian cities feel more local. Instead of being surrounded by tourists, you see people living their lives meaningfully and connectedly. Phones are away, people walk with presence, and even when running late, the people I met allow time to live with intention. Stopping to talk to me simply because I asked and had something interesting to say.

Copenhagen is known to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world and in my opinion this extends to all the Scandinavian cities I have visited. Whether it's eating lunch at an Art Gallery in Malmo, visiting a design museum in Oslo, staying at Ett Hem in Stockholm, vintage shopping in Gothenburg or drinking matcha at Louis Roe in Copenhagen, each experience is the very best version that exists in the world. The people are friendly, beautiful, responsible and community-minded. Historic buildings line streets and often open into beautiful, architecturally considered and restored spaces. There are more stunning galleries and design museums than you could visit in a week, all spaces you could lose a day in - people watching or looking at the rich history and context of the Scandinavian way. Also, there is some of the best vintage shopping I have ever experienced in the world, with curated spaces for both fashion and furniture; you'll want to go with an empty suitcase to bring it all home.

In your opinion, what makes Scandinavian design unique / different?

The history of a culture can often inform the present, which is very true of Scandinavia. Whether it’s furniture or fashion design, I saw many references to the past that inform new iterations of modern objects. However, instead of copying heritage objects, time and energy are spent modernising the approach, resulting in something new.

How would you describe the differences between Norwegian vs Swedish vs Danish style?

From my first impressions, Norwegians wear a lot of used clothing, which makes for an open aesthetic; each person's style feels more individual. Swedes feel more serious. Though we only spent a little bit of time in Stockholm, I saw a uniform approach to dressing that I would happily have an excuse to explore further. Danish girls also have a consistent way of dressing similar to Swedes', but each girl brings a sense of individualism to their outfit, often with a unique colour palette, a vintage designer bag, colourful hair accessories, or something else; there is a consistent undertone of style that's accessories in a personal way.

Describe a stand-out look you spotted on your trip – where was it, who wore it, why did it stand-out for you?

Everywhere, girls in Scandinavia have a perfect baseline for their outfits. In each city, every day I was travelling, I found myself passing countless people dressed in a very inspired way. The standout moments from this trip have all been recorded in a tightly curated fine art series that we are exhibiting in Sydney at Jardan this coming June.

While walking to the vintage district in Oslo, camera in hand, looking for moments of interest, I saw a girl in a red coat coming down the street. Her hair was the same shade as the beautiful wool fabric she was wearing, crossing an intersection with a perfectly similar-coloured building across the street. I took her picture before I stopped her and explained who I was and why I was there. Late for a party, she still agreed to let me take another four portraits. She told me her coat was used - we spoke for a few more moments, and she was on her way.

The second time this happened was on a snow day in Malmo. Hiding from the cold and basking in the bright orange cafe of Moderna Museet Malmö, the morning felt slow until upon leaving, I turned a corner and met Jenny. Last year, while exploring a theorised approach to style as we age, I had an image of two women wearing leopard outfits go viral. Jenny, a Swedish woman in her 50s, embodied the viral image in real life. She wore a leopard coat from H&M, pants she had owned for over ten years, boots she had bought herself to celebrate graduating from nursing just three years prior, a scarf and t-shirt that were both merch from her daughter's band, and a knit given to her by her husband. As we spoke, she told me she only bought one item per year, and her coat was from last winter.

What fashion and/or cultural observations did you make while onboard the trains, or while in the train stations? (how did your rail journeys help you to better understand Scandinavian style and way-of-life)

Young women sitting next to us knitting jumpers and scarves was one of the most formative memories of train travel. Formative, because even though I was taught to knit as a kid, as an adult I rarely make time. In contrast I saw this scene, as frequently as I saw people reading books. Evidence that the slow mindset cultivates slower and meaningful uses of time.

What can Australia learn from Scandinavian design and style?

Less is more.

As I navigate my own collection of clothes, I realise how much capacity it takes to organise the things around us continuously. Choosing outfits from overstuffed wardrobes versus having one coat for the winter may feel like a far stretch, but one I would personally like to lean towards. Interrogating individual pieces to ensure their value is held well into the future.

Placing equal importance on form and function.

As I think of the Australian women I know, my mother, my sisters, and my friends, I’d like to give them permission to place importance on the beauty and visual satisfaction of a piece as much as how useful it is. I think often Australian women make do because something is cheaper instead of striving for the most beautiful and practical item they can afford.

If we consume less and are willing to be more discerning about the items we bring into our lives, we will effortlessly move towards a Scandinavian way of being.

Supporting local and helping rebuild industries that repair and restore all our items of value.

Did you make any clothing or accessory purchases for yourself on your trip – what did you purchase, where did you purchase it, what drew you to purchase it?

This year, as I complete a consumption goal of 15 new items, I'm learning how to vintage shop. As a new habit and something I intend to cultivate long-term, I indulged in as much vintage shopping as Scandinavia had to offer. Curated vintage stores allow for effortless shopping, only ever spending moments in each space I was able to pick up many items along the way.

In Grunerlokka, Oslo, I found myself watching people more than anything. Walking the streets looking for interesting people, I bought a brown plaited leather belt and a white vintage bow tie.

In Gothenburg, Sweden, I ducked into a Pop Boutique to escape the snow and walked out with a pair of vintage Levis' and a black belt.

In Copenhagen, Denmark, at Paloma Vintage, I found an oatmeal D&G coat with a leopard collar, and cuffs and a red wool cardigan—the creme de la creme to finish my vintage shopping experience.

Tell us about your personal journey towards sustainable living (and in particular sustainable style / fashion), and why is this important to you?

When I was a child, we didn't have anything in excess. Food and the things we owned were all essential, and my parents spent years learning about and caring for the environment. Now that I have a family, many practices and ideas have remained. The one thing we never did growing up was shop, so when the decade of fast fashion and social media began, I had no roadmap for navigating it. I enjoyed new clothes and felt that to participate in fashion, I needed to wear new things.

It was the beginning of 2022 when I realised I didn't have a great relationship with clothes. I had a wardrobe of beautiful and basic clothes waiting to be worn, yet my thoughts and feelings about getting dressed were often negative. At the same time, I became aware of the environmental implications of fashion and knew I had to make changes.

Now, in my third year of exploring my relationship with clothes, I am happier than ever. I buy less, am learning how to take care of my clothes, track my purchases, and know where the items I buy are made and by whom, all while creating an online conversation encouraging others to do the same.

Australia is the second largest consumer of textiles in the world, and spreading awareness of this and encouraging others to dress more personally satisfyingly has become my life's work.

What does slow travel mean to you?

For me it's a mindset. It's walking through streets and finding local thrift shops. It's taking time to watch people sitting at a cafe drinking matcha. It's participating in a movement that moves away from excess and towards selectiveness. It's putting greater meaning behind the simple aspects of life, and finding satisfaction in consuming less.

What were some of your favourite mindful moments on this slow travel journey through Scandinavia?

Good conversation with complete strangers.

Sitting on the trains watching people knitting.

People-watching in art galleries, followed by a deep dive into the associated design shops - my favourite places to shop in the world.

Lunch at Ett Hem.

A conversation at Paloma Vintage about shared values - an opportunity to reflect on all the people I had met so far.

Walking through Malmo, and seeing spring starting to bloom around us.

What slow travel journey would you love to do next?

There are so many places in the world I would like to go, and now that I feel confident with European train travel via the Eurail app, the options feel endless.

I'd either like to continue where I left off and travel by train from Copenhagen to Berlin stopping along the way, before travelling down through Switzerland to Milan. Or I’d like to visit Spain and explore the history of bullfighters costumes, and traditional Spanish dress in contrast to how people dress everyday. As I move further along my relationship with clothes journey and look to build a wardrobe of elevated items, I feel I can learn so much by observing others. I can also picture the colours and life in each image, and would love to experience the glamour firsthand.

Unlike flying, train travel allows you to stop in smaller cities and towns. Gaining local experience and knowledge along the way, something that follows my recent Scandinavian adventure is now at the top of my priority list when it comes to travelling.

You travelled to Europe in the shoulder season (April) – in your opinion, what are the key benefits to shoulder season travel vs peak season travel?

Travelling with the change of seasons always brings the most unexpected and beautiful weather, so I love travelling in the shoulder season because I feel like I often get a taste of a mild version of both winter and summer in the same place.

What are your top tips for others considering a slow travel rail journey across Scandinavia?

Take your time and indulge your senses. So often when we are planning a holiday, we end up looking at the same Google recommendations as everyone else.

Travelling by train opens up the opportunity to visit smaller towns between capital cities, and I couldn’t recommend this more highly. Two of my favourite experiences on this adventure were in Malmo and Gothenburg, both lesser known cities in Sweden. In Gothenburg I was having such a wonderful time, we pushed our train back by an hour or so, so we could stay a little longer. The flexibility, and opportunity to be spontaneous led to a more connected travel experience, one I will remember for a lifetime.